by Donna Hruska

A young secretary, on her first job with an apartment to furnish and a student wardrobe to be replaced, needs transportation, but can’t afford new car costs.

A junior executive moving fast up the corporate ladder needs the prestige of a luxury automobile, but prefers to pay economy prices.

A middle-aged divorcee, back in the working world on a limited budget needs a ride to work.

All will head for the nearest used car lot. Whether they are pleased with the result will depend on how well prepared they are to fight their way through the used car jungle.

Last year, Americans bought eleven and a half million pre-owned autos—double the number of vehicles sold from new car showrooms. Most of these buyers were interested primarily in economy, preferring to let someone else swallow the rapid depreciation of Detroit’s newest models, from 25% to 30% in the first year alone. Unfortunately, many gained only headaches and repair bills, emerging from the experience with a liberal education in the “let the buyer beware” school of economics.

Women frequently have difficulty buying cars because of the rather common assumption that they lack mechanical ability. As one widow put it, “If you finally got them to take you seriously, they try to unload every old lemon on the lot.”

“What’s worse,” adds another young woman, “About half of them assume you’re shopping for a man, not a car. Three different salesmen called after I had visited their lots, offering to drop by my apartment to discuss my transportation problem.”

Connie Schoen is an example of what can happen to the unwary. Lured by a used car dealer’s newspaper ad which declared “We Undersell Them All!” she was delighted to find a three-year-old station wagon at $200 less than any comparable model she had seen elsewhere. She took it on a test drive around five or six city blocks, noticed nothing wrong except for an inoperable emergency brake and purchased the car, with the provision that the dealer repair the brake.

Since she traveled primarily around town, Connie did not actually run her new wagon at high speeds until five weeks after she bought it. Once on the expressway she almost lost control of the car. It was all over the road, nearly impossible to guide. Too late, she discovered that someone—the former owner or the dealer—had put the wrong sized tires on the front, the front end was out of alignment and the ball joints were bad. For good measure, the emergency brake failed again.

The dealer refused to make corrections, reminding her that the thirty day warranty period was past, and Connie saw more than the $200 she had saved on the purchase price disappear into repair bills.

Like many unprepared buyers, Connie had ventured into the jungle without a plan or a guide.

Does this mean that there are no bargains to be had, no safe used cars on the market? Must you be a mechanical marvel to buy a pre-owned car?

Not at all. There are good deals and honest dealers. Any buyer, even our young and inexperienced secretary on her first job, can save money and get good transportation, but she must know and follow a few simple rules.

First, choose your dealer carefully. Connie Schoen made her first mistake when she fell for the low price come on. No one can get more than 100 cents out fo a dollar. While individual bargains are to be found, a dealer who consistently undercuts the competition by a large margin has to be cutting his cost, too, frequently by not making needed repairs.

Connie would have done better to shop the used car lots of new car dealers. They customarily keep only the best trade-ins for resale. The remainder are sold at wholesale auctions, generally to owners of independent lots.

Second, do some homework. Study the newspaper ads for a week or two to find out what the asking price is for the kind of transportation you desire. The guides used by the dealers themselves are available to you, too. Banks and libraries have copies of the Official Used Car Guide and Kelly’s Blue Book, which list current wholesale and retail prices of virtually every make and model, including major optional equipment.

One of the best preparations is to drive a car that you know is in good condition, giving it the same road test you plan to give prospective purchases. Let your whole body become an antenna tuned to the rhythm of the machine. Feel the vibrations through your hands on the wheel and your feet on the pedals. Listen to the smooth purr of a well-tuned engine so that any wrong note in the car you are buying will instantly register.

When you buy a TV set or a washer, you shop around before making a decision. Do at least that much for the machine that will transport you for the next few years by visiting several dealers to compare.

The three “don’ts” of sales resistance are: Don’t be pressurised, don’t take anything you don’t want, don’t sign anything until you are sure.

It helps to know some of the pitfalls in the jungle before you venture in. Some of these old pitches have whiskers, but every day the innocent fall for them. Most buyers would recognize “It belonged to four old nuns who only drove it to the convent and back” and “The former owner was an old maid schoolteacher who kept it up on blocks.” (Even if that last one were true, it would be no recommendation. A machine that is used runs better than one that sits.)

But others sound more plausible. Watch out for “We had to repossess it and therefore don’t need to ask too much,” and “An engaged couple started to make payments on it but now the wedding is off. You can just take over their payments.” Learn to recognize a “low ball” (a ridiculously low offer that will be changed at the last minute after you’ve fallen in love with the car) and the “highball” (an extremely high offer for your trade-in that the manager will fail to authorize just as you’re ready to sign the papers).

Have confidence in your own abilities and don’t let that salesman bluff you. You may know more than he does, for mechanical knowledge is not a requisite of his job. He only needs to know how to sell.

You might try a few bluffs of your own. One young Connecticut couple always makes a point of learning the first name of the owner of the dealership, casually dropping it into the conversation.

“It’s amazing,” the husband says, “how often a salesman will immediately steer us away from a vehicle he had previously been touting. He isn’t about to unload a bad deal on a personal acquaintance of the boss.”

Third, and most important, choose the car carefully. What is the actual mileage? Has it been in a wreck? Is it in good running condition? Even if just tightening a screw taxes your mechanical ability, the answers to these questions are within your grasp. Master them and you’ll be a match for even the most unscrupulous pitchmen.

A dismayed reader wrote into a consumer advice column not long ago, complaining that he had bought a 1965 sedan a month before, paying more than that year and model were worth because of its low mileage. Now he had discovered that the odometer (speedometer) had been turned back. Was there anything he could do to get his money back?

Unfortunately, no, the columnist answered. Although it’s against the law in most states, turning the odometer back is an almost accepted practice in the used car business. There are ways to estimate mileage, however.

A look at the odometer itself can be revealing. Certain brands have a tamper device that shows a little blue line on the two numerals tothe left if they have been reversed. In others, the numerals may not line up evenly at the bottom.

The service stickers near the front door hinges should show the mileage at the last oil change. If they’ve been removed, it’s natural to wonder why. Wear is an indicator of mileage. The original battery should last at least 20,000 miles, original tires (they’ll have the same brand name with serial numbers close together) usually last no more than 35,000, although there have been some improvements in original tire quality in the last two years. If the brake pedal has a distinct wobble, figure 40,000 miles. For a pedal that is worn through or recently replaced, count on at least 25,000 miles. Frayed upholstery and floor mats are further indications of age.

A man from Kankakee, Illinois, was astonished to get a phone call from a stranger in Minnesota about a month after he had traded in his luxury hardtop.

“I’ve been buying from the same auto dealer for years,” said the caller, “but it never hurts to check. How many miles were on your car when you traded it?”

Imagine his surprise when the man from Kankakee told him 95,000 miles. The odometer had been turned back to 36,000. Why not ask the man who knows that car best? A reliable dealer won’t hesitate to provide the name, address and telephone number of the former owner. In all fairness, we must mention that the dealer may not know the odometer has been changed. People sometimes reverse the mileage on their trade-in to get a better price.

No one wants an automobile that has been in a wreck. A mended frame never regains its original strength.

To find crash damage, first look for wrinkles in the body by examining it from different angles. Be suspicious of new paint or mismatched decals. Open and close every door. If they bind, there’s a good chance the body’s had a hard bump. Use a flashlight to check the front and back of the radiator for any damage or repair work.

The next two suggestions will really make a believer out of your salesman. Carry a tape measure and calculate the distance between the front and back tires on either side. Any difference indicates the frame is bent. Then, have a friend drive the car away from you. If it seems to move crabwise or if the front and rear tires don’t line up, skip it. It’s been in an accident.

Is it in good running condition?

A used car buyer’s best friend is a mechanic he can trust. If you don’t know one who will go over the chariot you are seriously considering, invest $10 to $20 and run it through a good diagnostic center. This electronic examination should include inspection of the engine for cylinder compression, a look at the brake linings, frame, cooling system, exhaust system, front end and a driving test to rate the transmission and drive shaft.

If you haven’t a friendly mechanic at hand and a diagnostic center isn’t convenient, don’t lose heart. Even the most fragile girl or absent-minded professor type can still learn a lot on her own.

Hop up and down on the bumper and jump off. If the body sways more than once, it needs new shock absorbers. See if the dealer will replace them or make an allowance on the purchase price. Sit in the car and try all the buttons—windshield wipers and washers, power accessories, radio. The little things can often be the most aggravating. Push the brake pedal down hard. If it sinks to the floor slowly instead of stopping, brake work is in the offing.

Stick your head under the hood. Never mind if the whole thing is a bigger mystery to you than the inside of the office computer. You can still examine the radiator and hoses for leaks. Pull out the dip stick and see if there is oil in the crankcase. Shady dealers have been known to drain the oil on oil burners. Start the engine when cold and accelerate while a friend watches for the blue smoke that identifies heavy oil use.

While the motor is running, get back under the hood and listen for any unusual hissing, squealing, grinding or grating noises. That motor should purr along smoothly without laboring. A sparkling clean engine should neither amaze nor influence you. Most dealers at least steam clean the engine and many repaint it.

If you can get someone to put the car up on a rack, grab the wheels and shake. If they are loose or noisy, you may have the same front end problems Connie Schoen found. Insist that the faults be corrected before you buy.

Now you’re ready for a test drive. If the dealer objects or wants a down payment first, go elsewhere. He’s hiding something. The jalopy probably won’t make it around the block.

This is where your homework pays off. Remember how that well-tuned automobile sounded and felt—no whistles, clicking or other odd noises, nothing but smooth power under hand and foot? Shift several times to check the transmission. It should respond swiftly and smoothly with no delayed thumps from the rear. Get onto an open road and accelerate rapidly. The car should gain speed without sputtering and shaking. Brake at 50 miles per hour. You should stop quickly without brake grabbing on one side or the other. Now find a rough road to travel and check for loose steering. The wheel should not jump around in your hands. Park on a hill and set the emergency brake. Does it work?

If you have doubts on any of these points after your test drive, get someone with more knowledge to investigate or forget about this vehicle, even if the color does match your eyes. Your dream boat will become a nightmare if it’s in constant need of repair.

There are a few other points to consider that can make the difference between getting a buggy that is adequate and getting an outstanding buy. Few of the extras cost more so it pays to look for a well equipped machine. You can save by taking an unpopular color and sedan styling. If you buy a make that avoids radical style changes you’ll find yourself satisfied with it for a longer time. Get as many repairs as possible done before you buy or get the purchase price reduced sufficiently. The warranty on a used car is usually for only thirty days with the cost of repairs split 50-50 withthe buyer.

And now to money. Two areas that many buyers fail to consider beforehand are insurance and financing, yet both should be investigated before making any purchase offer.

A young bachelor in Chicago became enamored of a red sports car that had more sex appeal than many of his girlfriends. In a rush of emotion he bought it and drove it home, stretching his budget near the breaking point in the process. When he called to change his insurance coverage he was shocked to find that the high performance engine raised his premium 30% over cost of coverage for a standard engine. Since his under 25 age already put him in an exhorbitant premium class, he ended by selling his dream machine—at a loss.

There are other ways to save money on car insurance and the time to find them is before you make your selection. Shop around for coverage since costs vary widely.

Choose financing as carefully as you chose the car. The least expensive financing method is cash. If you haven’t quite enough,

pay as much down as possible and finance over a short period of time. Sources of money vary in interest charged, with dealer finance companies being the most expensive, followed by commercial bank loans and credit unions. Steer away from those “no down payment” ads. They usually involve two loans—a small one from a loan company for the down payment and a larger one from the bank, both at high rates of interest.

If all this sounds like a lot of work, remember, transportation is a major item in your budget, probably second only to shelter. A little time and effort will see you emerge on the other side of the jungle jingling the keys to your own automobile with some cash left in your pocket. Whether you are a girl buying her first car or a businessman looking for prestige at standard prices, the look of respect on that salesman’s face alone will make it worth the trip.

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USED CAR CHECKLIST

(Clip and save to take along next time you’re shopping for a used car.)

ACTUAL MILEAGE?

1. odometer ____________
2. service stickers ____________
3. battery (20,000 original) ____________
4. tires (15,000 original) ____________
5. brake pedal, worn or replaced (25,000) ____________
6. brake pedal wobbles (40,000) ____________
7. former owner comments ____________

ACCIDENTS?

1. body wrinkles ____________
2. new paint or decals ____________
3. doors that bind ____________
4. radiator damage or repair ____________
5. distance between front and back tires: left _____, right _____
6. crabwise movement ____________
7. line up of front and rear tires ____________

RUNNING CONDITION?

1. shock absorbers ____________
2. brakes (regular) _______ (emergency) _______
3. loose or noisy wheels ____________
4. under hood: leaks _____ noises _____ oil in crankcase _____ burning oil _____

5. Test drive: noises _____ acceleration _____ transmission _____ steering _____ brakes _____

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HOW TO BUY A USED CAR

Twice as many used as new cars are sold each year in the United States. Some smart shoppers look at that first year’s depreciation and decide to let someone else swallow the 25% to 30% it costs to drive that new chariot out the showroom door. Others enjoy luxury car comfort, but want to pay economy car prices. Whatever his reasons, the buyer of a pre-owned auto must be sharp to compete in the used car marketplace, but he can save money and get good transportation by following a few simple rules.

I. Choose a dealer carefully.

A. The best is probably the used car lot of a new car dealer.

B. Avoid the dealer with wild price ads—”We Beat Any Deal!” etc.

II. Choose the car carefully.

A. What is the actual mileage?

1. Check odometer, if numbers are unevenacross the bottom, it may have been turned back.
2. Check service stickers.
3. Check wear—tires, brake pedalpedal, floor mats, battery.
4. Call the former owner.

B. Has the car been in a wreck?

1. Check for wrinkles in body—be suspicious of new paint.
2. Try doors for binding.
3. Check radiator front and back for any damage or repair work.
4. Measure the distance between front and back tires.
5. Have someone drive car away from you—if it seems to move crabwise or front and rear tires don’t line up, skip it.

C. Is it in good running condition?

1. Take it to diagnostic center or mechanic for check-up, or:
2. Check wheels—if loose or noisy when shaken, allow for correction.
3. Hop up and down on bumper, jump off. If body sways more than once, it needs new shock absorbers.
4. Push the brake pedal down hard—if it sinks to the floor slowly instead of stopping, the car needs brake work.
5. Check the engine a. Stick your head under the hood. Check for leaky hoses, don’t be amazed by sparkling engine. b. Start engine when cold and accelerate. Have someone watch for blue smoke. Make sure car has oil. Some dealers will drain crankcase on oil burners. c. Take a test drive. Listen for odd noises, shift several times to check transmission, accelerate rapidly. Car should gain speed without sputtering and shaking. Brake at 50 miles per hour. Brakes should not grab on one side or the other. Drive over rough road and check for loose steering. Check emergency brake.

D. Other points to consider.

1. Look for a well equipped car—few extras cost more.
2. Save by taking an unpopular color and sedan styling.
3. Choose a make that avoids radical style changes.
4. A smaller, newer car is usually less trouble than an older luxury car.
5. Understand warranty—usually 30 days with cost of repairs split 50-50 with the buyer.

III. Choose financing carefully.

A. The least expensive is cash. B. Next least is to pay a lot down. C. Finance over a short period of time. D. Sources from most to least expensive—dealer finance company, commercial bank loan, credit union.

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